How to keep...

Salamanders

Sergé Bogaerts

INTRODUCTION

Salamanders are amphibians and are, therefore, dependent on water. Some salamanders spend their entire life in water, while others only do so during certain times of the year (like our Dutch salamanders. There are also some species that only live in a humid environment and never enter water. Salamanders inhabit temperate, Mediterranean, as well as tropical habitats in the northern hemisphere. Australia lacks salamanders, and they are only found south of the equator in Central and South America. It is important to make the environmental conditions and decoration of the aquarium or terrarium resemble those of the animal's natural environment, including the yearly cycle. Hygiene should always have the highest priority.

THINK BEFORE YOU BUY

Always think carefully about what it is that you want. One thing to consider carefully is what you can offer your animals. Try to learn as much as possible about the salamander before purchase and apply your knowledge as it will considerably decrease the chance of a disappointment. Generally, very few salamanders are offered for sale in the pet trade, and those are often in poor health. Therefore it is highly recommended to obtain captive-bred animals through fellow salamander enthusiasts.

How does one recognise a healthy salamander? The animals should not look like a walking skeleton; it is a bad sign when the pelvis and spine are showing too clearly. They should never have wounds, fungal infections, ulcers, or bleeding lacerations (pay special attention to the mouth, toes, and tail tip). Healthy salamanders should turn themselves upright immediately after having been turned over. Of course, one should never purchase salamanders that are housed in a basin containing dead or dying animals.

If one encounters healthy animals, attempt to acquire a group of 4 to 8 animals of the same species, with varying sizes and coloration (see also sexual dimorphism). If the sexes are easily distinguished, a group of two males and four females would be the ideal starting point for a breeding group.

It is recommended to keep the animals in quarantine for a period of time. This implies housing the animals in a relatively bare container with very few hiding places, both humid and dry. During this period, the salamanders need to be watched closely. Observe whether they eat well and whether they show any disorders. Maintain them under these conditions for several weeks and clean the container weekly.

SEXUAL DIMORPHISM

The difference between males and females is not always easy to observe, especially outside of the reproductive season. During the mating season, the males of most species have a more swollen cloaca (the area at the base of the tail) than do females. Additionally, they are often built more robustly and have relatively long limbs. Females often grow larger than males. In many species of aquatic salamanders, males develop a dorsal crest and/or a more robust tail for swimming. Often they possess a bright colour pattern.

SPECIES

One of the easiest, and at the same time, most remarkable species of salamanders is the Axolotl, Ambystoma mexicanum. This approximately thirty centimeters long salamander spends its entire life in the water. Strangely enough, this species reproduces during its larval stage and retains its external gills throughout its life. They are easy to keep in a large aquarium.

Other easy to keep species are the Asian fire-bellied salamanders, such as Cynops orienta­lis, Cynops ensicauda, and Cynops pyrrho­gaster. These animals spend practically their entire life in the water, are often beautifully coloured and are long-lived. Additionally, they prefer somewhat higher temperatures (18 to 22ºC), making them ideal inhabitants for a living room aquarium.

Asian species of the genera Pachytriton and Parame­sotriton are often available in the pet trade. However, these are aggressive and difficult species and are therefore not recommended for the beginner. As far as American species that are available in the pet trade, Notophthalmus virides­cens is the most commonly encountered. This species is also not very easy to keep and often turns out to carry diseases.

Many European salamanders can not be kept in captivity anymore because of legal restrictions, but luckily the Salamander Taskforce (see below) has been reasonably successful at breeding them in captivity. Beautiful and relatively easy to keep aquatic salamanders are Triturus marmora­tus, Triturus carnifex, Triturus karelinii, and Pleurode­les waltl. These species can often be kept in water throughout the year, although T. marmora­tus frequently chooses to spend some time on land during the summer.

Terrestrial salamanders are often the more difficult species to keep in captivity. A reasonable exception are North American Ambystoma species, such as Ambys­toma macula­tum and Ambystoma opacum. Ambystoma tigrinum is the largest species in this group and may reach forty cm. These animals are easily maintained in a large terrarium with a large water basin. They rapidly adjust to eating dead prey, which is taken when dangled in front of the mouth. Unfortunately, breeding Ambysto­ma species is seldom successful.

Occasionally, worm salamanders of the genus Typhlonec­tes appear in pet stores. These aquatic, eel-like, bluish-black animals are easily kept in a tropical aquarium. They can be fed living or dead prey. The other worm salamanders are barely known.

TERRARIUM OR AQUARIUM?

Salamanders generally need a humid environment. However..., a completely dry area should be available to them at all times! It depends on the species of salamander whether an aquarium or a terrarium should be used. Many species of the genera Cynops, Pachytriton and Paramesotriton (often referred to as 'Asian fire-bellied salamanders') can be kept in an aquarium without problems. If in doubt, opt for an aquaterrarium. In such a container, the water basin contains a dry land area (such as a floating piece of cork bark).

Decorate the aquarium - or the water basin of the aquaterrarium - with hardy aquatic plants and leave the bottom bare or cover it with fine gravel or coarse aquarium sand. A terrarium can be equipped with a substrate of peat, forest mulch, a layer of clay or loess on top of a layer of gravel. On top of the substrate one can stack things like pieces of (cork) bark or old roof tiles. Supplying the animals with such retreats is essential. The layer of gravel will provide sufficient drainage. Such a terrarium is very suited for terrestrial salamanders of the genus Ambystoma. If desired, the terrarium can be decorated with plants (e.g. small ferns) or moss. One part of the terrarium should be kept humid (by spraying regularly) and another dry so that the animals have a choice. Usually a relatively low temperature (between 10 and 20°C) is preferred, both for an aquarium and a terrarium. Additional heating is generally not required. A source of light is essential, especially for plant growth. A fluorescent tube light is well-suited for this purpose. It can be run off a timer, which will regulate the day length depending on the season (approximately 14 hours during summer and about 8 hours in winter). Direct sunlight is risky since the terrarium might overheat. Glass strips are placed on top of the container to prevent the salamanders from escaping. They can actually walk up against the glass! Terraria are covered with screen and aquaria with glass. Ensure that there are no openings through which the animals could escape, but make sure that there is sufficient ventilation

BEHAVIOUR

To some people, salamanders are not the most remarkable terrarium animals. Because of their nocturnal habits they often hide during the day. However, mating in most salamanders is very spectacular. Many species perform an elaborate courtship before the male transfers his sperm to a female. A large portion of our knowledge on the different courtship patterns was actually collected by people who keep and observe these animals in captivity. Reproduction can sometimes be stimulated by placing these animals at lower temperatures (approximately 5°C) for about three months. Often it is useful to adjust the day length to winter conditions. However, only do this when the animals are in good health.

Most species lay their eggs in water, but there are also species that never enter water and lay their eggs in humid spots on land. There are even species that give birth to live juveniles with a tiny young salamander born on land.

The larvae of salamanders are usually predatory and only eat live prey such as Daphnia, tubifex, red mosquito larvae. Given the opportunity they will eat each other so it is important to house them in small groups of equal size and regularly separate the smaller larvae from the larger ones.

Keeping different species of salamanders together, or keeping salamanders together with other animals, is not recommended. Each species has different habitat requirements and for studying and breeding them, it is better to keep different species separate.

FOOD

The size of the food depends on the size of the salamander eating it. On land, all types of live prey can be offered: worms, crickets, meal worms, slugs, moths, and other small invertebrates. Additionally, a vitamin/mineral additive (e.g. Gisto­cal, Carmix, Reptovit or Korvimin) can be dusted onto the prey animals. This is especially important for growing animals. They also require additional calcium for building bones. The food is best offered in a low dish or bowl placed in a depression in the substrate.

In the water one can also offer live prey, such as tubi­fex, worms and red mosquito larvae. Many animals adapt well to taking dead prey, like frozen mosquito larvae, Mysis, pieces of cow's heart, liver, chicken, and whatever else comes to mind. Ensure that everything gets eaten as remaining food will decompose. Juvenile salamanders eat basically the same food as adults do, the food items just need to be smaller. In the water they eat tubifex, Daphnia, small worms and red mosquito larvae. On land, buffalo worms, fruit flies and their maggots, red mosquito larvae and small crickets can be offered.

DISEASES

Little is known about salamander diseases and their cures. As always, it is better to prevent diseases by carefully observing hygiene and correct feeding. Sick animals should be placed in a separate container immediately. The best thing to do in such a case is to instantly disinfect the container the animal came from and to either discard the decoration or boil it.

The salamander disease most feared is the so-called 'salamander plague'. This is a collective term for any disease in which the animal develops open wounds that spread steadily. Eventually, the animal's bones will be exposed and it will die shortly thereafter. If the disease is diagnosed at an early stage, the animal can be treated with a wide-spectrum antibiotic which is available from veterinarians. The responsible agent can be resistant to many of the currently used antibiotics, so make sure to research this properly. Ask your veterinarian to dilute the chosen medication based on the body weight of the animal. The medicine should be applied orally, preferably with a small pipette. Do this most carefully. The best way to orally administer medication is by having one person hold the salamander and open its mouth by gently pulling on the skin on the throat while a second person applies the medicine.

FURTHER INFORMATION

The author, Sergé Bogaerts, is a member of the Salamander Taskforce. This group issues a newsletter four times a year and collects information for publications, both from literature and from experience. Additionally, there are frequent meetings. You can become a member as well. Please send a letter to: Salamander Taskforce, c/o Ad Bouwman, Luitgardeweg 10, NL-1231 TA Loosdrecht, The Netherlands.